Hotel review Palazzo di Varignana, Bologna, Italy - Great British Life

Published: 4:50 PM August 24, 2022

In the second part of a tour of Tuscany, editor Richard Young visits a health resort in the Bologna hills.

It was raining when we arrived at Bologna Central - the impressive 1930s station on the fast line from Florence where it had been sunny just 40 minutes earlier. So it wasn't until the next morning, our taxi having driven half an hour into the cloud-filled hills to the south-east of the city, that we could see exactly where we were. 

And that was perched on a hillside, looking out for miles across the Emilia-Romagna countryside, land rich in agriculture and history. We are at Palazzo di Varignana, a wellbeing resort based around a restored early 18th century villa, and right off, the ambition of this place is clear.

Owner, fintech businessman, Carlo Gherardi has a love affair with this part of Italy and has invested in a contemporary new hotel and spa along with sports facilities including a golf course.

Junior suite. The rooms have a colour theme of taupe and chocolate - Credit: Palazzo di Varignana

The project is much bigger than that however, encompassing more than 500 hectares, with regeneration of historic buildings and farmhouses into guest villas, and redevelopment of neglected farmland to once again grow vines and olive trees as well as fruit and vegetables, even pomegranates and saffron are grown. A new winery overlooking vineyards produces vintages for the resort as well as export, and produce is used in the hotel's three restaurants.

I would discover all of this later, first of all myself and my partner wanted to try the spa. After three days exploring beautiful Florence on foot with a baby, we felt in need of some pampering. A short walk from our room - a smart, modern affair with balcony overlooking the valley - Varsana Spa has an indoor pool and seven outdoor pools with various massaging jets and waterfalls. Other facilities include steam rooms, saunas and experience showers. A muscle relaxing few hours were had trying these all out. 

One of eight pools on the resort - Credit: Palazzo di Varignana

A private spa, Ars Vivendi, can also be hired. Taking elements of the Middle Eastern hammam and the Japanese ofuro, this is a guided experience through each tradition. The architects and engineers have done a great job recreating a Turkish bath (a very smart one), and a Japanese bathroom complete with wooden plunge bath.

Different oils and resins to cleanse the skin, steam, showers, waterfall massage and cold buckets of water alternating with a hot bath left us feeling very relaxed. So a tea ceremony at the end seated on tatami in a Japanese-inspired room with paper screens was followed by a short nap. It felt lovely. 

The Ars Vivendi Japanese tea room - Credit: Palazzo di Varignana

There are many beauty treatments, as well as holistic health programmes, on offer and the following day my partner Sarah had an 80-minute 'high performance radiance and rejuvenation' facial with therapist Nicoletta. This was so relaxing, Sarah fell asleep (there's a theme developing here). So a thumbs up from her.

After a discussion with Nicoletta about which products would be best for her skin, she purchased a bottle of Melagrano serum - part of Varsana Spa's own range that has olive oil, wine, pomegranate and saffron at its core. She also bought me a Sangiovese facial gel - definitely a notch up from my usual moisturiser. The ethos of the resort comes through not only in the cosmetics' ingredients from the surrounding countryside but also in the lovely packaging, made using grape pulp from the winery - a process that took a couple of years from conception we were told. 

Drawing on the produce of the region also comes through in the dining experience. There are three restaurants here - Il Grifone in the old palace, Aurevo in the main resort overlooking the pools and valley, and Trattoria Le Mazoline ('the hare' in Italian), a short walk away in gardens. We tried Aurevo and Le Mazoline. The latter draws on the rustic cooking traditions of the region.

Le Marzoline restaurant, Palazzo di Varignana - Credit: Palazzo di Varignana

Being so close to Bologna, we of course tried the Bolognese ragu served with tagliatelle. I asked the maître d' if she could tell me the secret of the excellent sauce - to be greeted with laughter and shaking of the head. I tried. Cold cuts with local cheeses, Angus beef served with roasted potatoes accompanied by the estates delicious Pino Nero, and cold tomato soup with burrata cheese and basil were all highlights. 

Aurevo is more refined, and draws on the estate's award-winning extra virgin olive oil in its dishes. With huge glass doors to two sides taking in the vast view below, it's a majestic spot. Sarah had an all-time favourite of her's - saffron risotto, while beef carpaccio, spaghetti with tuna steak, asparagus and spring onions, as well as beautifully cooked slices of Bordeaux style steak joined the table. All beautifully presented and delicious. 

The Aurevo restaurant with views for miles - Credit: Palazzo di Varignana

A tour of the agricultural land surrounding the resort on the last of our three days here was led in a 4x4 by sommelier Francesca, whose passion for the wine of this region - native Sangiovese, Albana, Famoso, Malbo Gentile, and Pignoletto are all grown plus Pinot Nero, Pinot Bianco, and Chardonnay - was a joy.

Begun in 2015, with produce being harvested now, much of what is grown here is for the future - a legacy that will bear fruit in years to come. The tour culminated in the state-of-the-art and beautifully crafted winery where we were treated to a wine tasting and pairing, and more unusually, an extra virgin olive oil tasting. 

So close to Bologna, with its wonderful mix of ancient buildings, fabulous food markets and high-end contemporary shops, Palazzo di Varignana is an excellent base from which to explore this less visited area of Tuscany. Or you could just stay put, as many families (there's a kids club to put the little angels in) and couples were doing, and still be immersed in the region's culture. 

palazzodivarignana.com

Hotel review Palazzo di Varignana, Bologna, Italy - Great British Life